Mount Everest North Expedition

  • Mount Everest North Expedition

55 Days •  

  • Trip Duration: 54 Nights / 55 Days
  • Group size: 1-20 Pax
  • Ends in: Kathmandu
  • Departure City: Lhasa
  • Max Altitude: 8848m
  • Activities: Sightseeing Tour / Trekking / Expedition


Trip Information

Mt. Everest North Expedition - George Mallory was in fact the first person ever to set foot on the mountain when he climbed to the nearby Lhakpa La from the eastern side during the first Everest reconnaissance of 1921. It was from the Lhakpa La Mallory first saw the North Col and the upper East Rongphuk glacier. He could see the long sweep of the north ridge leading up from the North Col to the Summit and realized that at last he had discovered a potential way to climb Everest, In a state of great excitement he dashed across the upper East Rongbuk and made the first ascent to the North Col. That night he slept on the North Col. In defiance of contemporary medical opinion as he had been told if he dared to sleep at such altitudes then he would become severely brain damaged. Mallory felt fine the next morning and climbed a short way up the north ridge but was forced to retreat because his companions were too terrified.

In earlier days climbers had to get highly expensive Everest climbing permit from Chinese authorities even if they did not really want to summit Everest. Now we can climb up to North Col (8848 meter below summit) without an Everest permit. This trip offers a classic opportunity to highly ambitious trekker-climber who wants to experience climbing Mt. Everest without spending too much money and time.

Expedition Highlights

  • Climb up to the Camp-1 of Everest, North col.
  • Climb technically easy but physiologically challenging climb
  • Stunning views of some of the highest peaks on earth namely, Everest, Lhotse and Makalu
  • Test of skills and physiology for Everest attempt
  • Experience your first 7000m climb on relatively safe route
  • Interesting experience of Tibetan culture in Tingri
  • Test for mountaineering isolation and psychological endurance

Experience & Physical Fitness

Previous mountaineering experience is required to at least 7000-7500m. You will also need to be very determined. To succeed you will need to be extremely fit and have a high level of endurance. You don't need to be fast but you need to be steady and strong. Mental toughness plays a large role as does the ability to relax and let your body acclimatise. It is not recommended for those who have problem of heart and long. Strong will power is essential to take the trip.

Accommodation and Food

In Kathmandu: We will be staying at the Shanker Hotel (4 star). This charming historic palace has a huge peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.

It is safe and clean and well staffed, and is a safe place to leave your clean town clothes and other gear when you are in the hills. There are many restaurants in Kathmandu catering to western tastes as well as plenty of local Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) shops at very reasonable prices.

On the Trek: We will enjoy full camping style service (cook, kitchen hands, morning tea to your tent door, camp sherpas to help with equipment, porters, yaks etc). Some of our head cook has been with us since 1995 and has picked up Thai curries, Italian pastas and a whole host of other dishes, which are very welcoming at the end of a good days trekking. We also have cooked breakfasts and cooked lunches where possible.

On the Mountain: We will use specialised mountaineering tents for our brief stays up high. Food will be prepared by your guide and Sherpas and will be more basic than you might expect at home.

Best Season

Autumn season (Sept-Nov) being the best season for climbing, as it offers excellent weather and tantalizing mountain views, and also best season for peak climbing.Perfect season to climb Mt. Baruntse.

Summer months (June-September) of the year which coincides with monsoon begins in mid-June and drains in mid-September making travel wet and warm. The mountain views may not be at their best as rain clouds and haze over hang the mountains occasionally obscuring the enchanting views. These times are blessed for the keen botanist as the higher valleys and meadows blossom with flowers and lush vegetation.

Spring season (March-May) is the expedition season and the best time for climbing the high peaks. It is mildly warm at lower elevations but occasional haze mars beautiful view of mountains. At higher elevations over 4,000 meters the mountain views are excellent and the temperature is quite moderate even at night.

Insurance & Evacuation

Most of our adventures in the Himalaya take us to remote regions of high altitude. We always take our time to acclimatize properly and we allow for additional rest days. While most people may experience minor ill effects from high altitudes, there are some who have persistent symptoms, which require return to a lower altitude or emergency evacuation. Adjusting to a new diet can also take some time.

All clients are required to have travel insurance covering emergency rescue, usually by helicopter. We must stress that this kind of evacuation occurs in a life or death situation only. Rest and/or descent to a lower altitude are the best remedies for most illnesses experienced out on the trail. Circumstances differ, and the head guide with regard to treatment and itinerary will evaluate each situation. Considering the ill person condition, if helicopter evacuation required then just co ordinate with your guide, he can talk to us, we will arrange the fastest evacuation system immediately. We will work with you to accommodate your needs and requests to the best of our ability. There are small, limited health clinics in some areas, hours of operation dependent upon the season. Additional costs incurred in cases of illness are not the responsibility of mine or will be charged as extra cost.


Trip Inclusion

What is included?

  • 4 nights hotel in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast tourist standard
  • Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide are 
  • provided; and our staff gets all expedition facilities from our office itself.
  • Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
  • Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face or similar)
  • Tibet visa & Expedition Permit for the expedition staff
  • Full board hotel in route to Lhasa, Ghyntse,& Zhangmu(bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
  • Per person’s (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from B.C. to ABC
  • Per person’s (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to BC
  • Kathmandu – Lhasa flight & drive to Lhsa, Ghyntse Everest Base camp
  • & Zhangmu (vice versa) 
  • are provided the jeep for the member & truck for the equipment and staff
  • Climbing permit for North Face Everest 8848m expedition
  • Tibet Visa & Travel permit
  • If join: trekker or BC – ABC member includes all services
  • Liaison officer & Interpreter
  • Nepalese staff life & Medical insurance
  • ABC – Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator, if use pay it
  • Satellite phone (Pay call)
  • Gamow bag (Life saving device in case of altitude sickness)
  • Welcome dinner typical Nepali restaurant with songs & dance

What is not included?

  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • Personal Expenses
  • Medical and rescue insurance
  • Personal Climbing equipment
  • Bar bills & Beverage.
  • conservation fee USD 20 Per person (No refund)
  • Medicine and first aid expenses 
  • Security Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person)
  • Permit fee of walkie - Talkie.
  • Extra yak, Per Yak’s USD 200 will be charge till to 40 KG load. 
  • Tips for BC and ABC staff
  • fixed rope charges
  • If use climbing Sherpa, summit bonus

USD 21,700

55 days

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